What a Moth Eats: The Resurgence of Vintage Garments
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user: Mikoto.raw, Pexels
Within the last couple of years, fashion’s corner of the internet has seen a tremendous rise in the popularity of vintage fashion. Not just vintage-inspired looks, but the actual curation and sale of garments from as far back as the 40’s and 50’s, all the way through to the 1990s. The result of this growing interest in vintage apparel has contributed to a massive boom in vintage fashion resellers.
With so many of these retailers popping up, many specialize in specific garments, eras, brands, or cultures. In my time spent browsing many of these shops, and even buying some pieces for myself, it’s evident that a majority operate exclusively online—whether it be on their own website or through third party resale platforms like Depop, Grailed, or Etsy. In addition to these sites, you’ll find almost all of these outlets marketing and conducting business on Instagram as well. Scattered throughout the glut of shops are some that have garnered greater success, opening their own store-fronts or warehouses where vintage-inclined shoppers can examine the carefully curated wears in person.
While some curators have been successful in building a large customer base here in Canada (like Whitby, Ontario based shop Vintage 905), almost all the shops that I tend towards are based in the USA—specifically Los Angeles and Portland, OR. Both of these cities seem to have quite a large vintage fashion community of enthusiasts. Some of my favourites right now include Mothfood, Unsound Rags, and No Maintenance, all based in LA; and Hellmart and Suite Zero, based in Portland. All five of these shops sell things like: denim, graphic tees, trousers, hats, footwear, sweaters, etc. all ranging in era.
To develop a deeper understanding of the community and business of vintage fashion, I spoke with co-founder of LA-based vintage shop No Maintenance, Sebastian Moraga, to get their perspective:
When and how did you guys get started with No Maintenance?
No Maintenance began [as a] conversation back in March [2020] between the two of us (Sebastian and Roe). We had both been involved in the archival fashion market for the past two years. This brought us familiarity with e-commerce. We both had an interest in vintage clothing, we both wore it and had collected a few pieces, so it seemed like an easy start. But, No Maintenance didn’t really evolve into what it has become today until about July [of this year].
With the vintage fashion market booming in popularity over the past few years, how might you explain the continuous, rising demand for vintage garments?
Like I mentioned before, we came from [a] background of designer goods, which was a very small niche that exploded. I believe the success of vintage clothing, to the point, that there are thousands of online shops, can be attributed to Instagram. [It’s] a combination of the right influencers and a rapidly changing menswear scene. Vintage has always been very popular. It has historically appealed to people in their 20’s and up. If you walked around San Francisco, New York, LA, etc. 5 years ago, the styles we see in vintage today are the same. In fact, I believe they are the same timeless looks that [trace] back to the 70’s when these garments were first being made. But, I believe when something catches [on] with the next generation, […] that’s when the trends explode in popularity. Pair that with [the] global phenomenon of social media, and you have kids all over the globe hungry for American vintage.
How much work goes into sourcing and acquiring garments for resale, and what does that work generally look like?
We work a ton. We have partnerships we have developed that help us with the workload. But generally speaking, work looks like this: source X amount of goods > wash/steam them > photograph/edit > measure > post on website > post on Instagram. That’s our workflow. There is a lot of work involved, but we can’t complain. It’s part of what we love.
How might you respond to criticism about inflating the price of garments that some people may argue can be found at thrift stores themselves?
Personally, I don’t feel that criticism necessarily concerns what we do. We want No Maintenance to be accessible and affordable. High prices are part of the game when you have a ton of demand. Thrifting can be quite difficult (especially during COVID-19). [Going] to a place and sorting through tons of used clothes to find one gem [is hard]. People are willing to pay a premium for the ease of having an item show up at their door. For me, it’s about finding the balance between accessibility and affordability while maintaining a certain standard. For example, we don’t do band tees too often, or many typical ‘vintage’ pieces you may see at upscale thrift stores. We try to shine a light on new styles, aesthetics, and general visual ideas.
What are some of your personal favourite eras or styles?
Personally, my interest in clothing and fashion goes beyond vintage. In terms of influence right now, it’s hard to ignore the 90’s. I think it’s just far enough away to feel distant, but an aesthetic that also fits into contemporary life. Some aspects of 80’s Japanese fashion appeal to me as well, and 70’s Americana. But generally speaking, it comes down to seasons (although LA is pretty warm year-round). I like to think we both incorporate elements of vintage Americana and vintage designer, and [when combined] they create their own distinct look.
October 28, 2020
Chad Hetherington
A fashion enthusiast and leisurely, self directed pupil of philosophy, Chad loves nothing more than love itself. In his free time, you’ll probably find him playing video games, spending time with his tight knit friends and family, or browsing for clothes.
